2025-05-26 10:38 am
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May, 2025 Update

Today was 'Last Bell' day, graduation day for the twenty-nine 11th graders at my school. The ceremony consists of many dances, singing and awards. There was one girl in the graduating class whose English was good enough to speak to me. Unfortunately, most of the students cannot speak English, even after 8 years of studying the language. (English starts in 3rd grade). English is not particularly valued here in this village, particularly among the boys. This is despite the fact that the village receives many tourists, due to its proximity to a SonKol lake which attracts many tourists. Education in general takes a back seat to family obligations--female students often miss school to care for younger siblings or other relatives and boys, to help with farming chores.

Earlier in the month I did an overnight horse trek trip to Kol Ukok, a lake near Kochkor with my friend Elizabeth. This was 3 hours to a yurt camp for lunch, then an hour and a half to the frozen lake, then an hour and a half back to the camp to sleep. So a long day on the horse. But it was beautiful and well worth it.

May 9 was Victory Day here, a day celebrating the 80th anniversary of the end of World War II. I was in Naryn City, an oblast center (similar to a state capital). They had a big parade, with different groups of soldiers marching. Many people marched holding old photos of loved ones. During World War II, Kyrgyzstan was part of the Soviet Union. Many men were recruited from here--many were lost fighting the Germans. There were also posters depicting different aspects of the war. This was an emotional day for me--I thought of my father who served in WWII in the New Guinea and Japan. Same war, different front.

Peace Corps headquarters has cancelled the next group of volunteers which was scheduled to arrive next week. We wonder if the plan is to close this country to volunteers, which would be a shame, especially considering the location of this country. It is the only 'stan' country that has volunteers, and borders China. Peace Corps volunteers who travel to a remote part of the world, live with a host family, learn the language spoken by the community provide long-term benefits to countries in need. The 'planting seeds' metaphor is quite true!
2025-05-04 09:38 am
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April, 2025 Update

Hello All,
I know this is a couple of days late. Rest assured, all is well. I was in Bishkek for a conference this week, and returned to my village (and laptop) later than I expected.
Regardless, April was a good month for me here in Kyrgyzstan. I actually made three trips to Bishkek. It is 5 hours one way on the marshutka and 4 hours via taxi. I usually take the marshutka option, for several reasons. First of all, they run directly from my village on a regular schedule, at 7:30 am and 12:30 pm. I prefer the early morning one because it avoids the rush hour traffic in the city. Bishkek has grown in population recently and the traffic can be very congested. I also like the anonymity of the marshutka. The first trip to Bishkek was to complete my grant project, the second was for a medical checkup, and the third was for a conference with all the volunteers in my cohort.
A highlight of the month was spending an evening at my friend Halida's house. I first met her parents in a shared taxi last fall. They were very friendly, and encouraged me to speak to her daughter who is learning English. I have met the family a couple of times in Bishkek, but have never been to their home. I enjoyed meeting Halida's grandmother, who is my age, as well as her younger brothers. It was lovely to be welcomed by a loving family.
With all of those trips to the capital, I only taught for 2 weeks. School is closed next week for Victory Day holiday and 2 other holidays that week, so the school year is just about over. Attendance drops precipitiously after spring break and is slow to start up in the fall.
My hotel friends are back in town. They spent the winter in the capital so their elementary school aged children could attend school there. I used their address for packages from home--I actually received a Christmas card today, which was lovely!
Recently, I noticed that the most beautiful tree in my village had been chopped down. I have no idea why. My village has few trees to begin with, so this was very sad to see. But, I made the most of it and used it as part of my nature focused English club. I taught the children how to count rings to determine a tree's age. I also taught them the word 'sad'.
Thanks for reading. Until next month.
2025-03-31 08:14 am
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March, 2025 Update: Romania and Ramadan

Hello All,
Another month has zipped by! We celebrated International Women's Day on March 8. This is a big day here, with male teachers giving flowers to female teachers and small gifts from parents and students. My birthday was March 11--my counterpart made me an embroidered bag to carry my books and laptop--I love hand-made gifts! Then my host family had cake and my favorite Kyrgyz meal--samsa with potatoes and onions and more cake. There were several March birthdays among the volunteers in my area, I had cake with them as well. The majority of people in my village were celebrating Ramadan during the month of March. They would have breakfast at 5:00 in the morning, then not eat or drink anything until 7:30 at night, not even water. I did not participate in the fast, but I was careful not to eat in front of those who were.

My friend Elizabeth visited my village early in the month. She is another 'senior' volunteer who lives 4-5 hours away. She is an experienced teacher, so she has many tips on how to make teaching fun and effective.

Spring break was spent in Romania. This is an interesting country. When they executed their dictator, Ceausescu, on Christmas Day, 1989, the huge Parliament building was 70% completed. Since he was despised, there was debate whether to tear it down or finish it. They decided to finish it, but of course there is mixed feeling about this huge building. My guide said it is the second largest building in the world, second only to the US Pentagon. Graffiti was everywhere in Bucharest. It seemed that part of the reason was because of recent political unrest (few people had heard of the man who won the Presidential election in November, as the election was compromised by Russian bots, so the election will be repeated soon, per my guide). I toured the beautiful Peles Castle in Sinaia, Romania, and went birding with a local naturalist near the Black Sea. The birding day was amazing (despite the car breaking down in the middle of nowhere--the adventures never ends!). I saw flamingos, owls, storks, pelicans and swans, along with many smaller birds. I stayed in nice hostels on this trip. I find hostel owners are very welcoming to single travelers. It is nice to meet travelers from other countries and to be welcomed back after an outing.
Yesterday was a big holiday here, Orozo Ait. It is the end of Ramadan. I went with my host-mom to several neighbors' homes in the morning, and to my counterparts' home in the afternoon. I feel privileged to be included in such festivities. Like most holidays everywhere, there is a lot of work involved for the women, cooking, cleaning, and hosting.
The end of the school year is fast approaching. I will make three trips to Bishkek in April, and May has several holidays so my teaching time will be limited for this school year.
Thanks for reading. If you are reading this separate from my Facebook page, you are missing out on the accompanying pictures.
2025-02-26 10:53 pm
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February, 2025 Update

Hello All,
This has been a relatively mild winter here thus far, with the temperature rarely below 20F. We had an inch of snow yesterday, enough to cover the ground, but no big storms. The ice in Kochkor is already melting--I sadly put my skates away this week.

My family has had a two year old grandson staying with them this month. I am not sure why he is here, rather than with his parents and sister in the capital. Child-rearing is interesting here. There are no cribs, (he sleeps on the floor like everyone else), no car seats, no child locks, no high chairs. Small children are often out on the street (a dirt road with few cars) without supervision. There are very few books here, but, they do have phones! The little boy is constantly entertained with videos on a phone. He has learned how to scroll to find what he wants to watch. Sometimes, when the grandparents are busy, a ninth-grade daughter (the boy's aunt) stays home from school to watch him.

Early in the month I visited my friend and fellow volunteer Elizabeth. She lives about 5 hours west of me, north of the big lake. It took me four taxis to get to her village, as there is no direct transportation. We saw some very old petroglyphs (from 7th century BC per the accompanying sign), went to a hot springs spa, and a large outdoor museum near the lake. It was a nice change of scenery!

School is going well. I ordered some new desks and chairs for our classroom with money donated from family and friends back home. I continue to enjoy my nature journaling English clubs. We measured the thickness of the ice on the river, then had some fun sliding on the ice. Children have trouble with words like 'thick' and 'thin' (as well as my name--they call me Roza) because there is no 'th' sound in the Kyrgyz language. Today we looked at leaf buds, on the trees and up-close with magnifying glasses I purchased.

Considering what is happening politically at home, we are fortunate that thus far there have not been changes to our service. I hope that I can continue my work here until my close of service date! Thanks for reading!
2025-01-30 05:16 am
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January, 2025 Update: Tbilisi, Georgia

Hello and Happy New Year!
I started the year with an international assortment of travelers in the capital of Georgia, Tbilisi. I was fortunate to find a lovely guesthouse where the owner welcomed me by name when I returned from an outing. Tbilisi is about a 4 hour flight from Almaty, Kazakhstan. There are no direct flights from Bishkek, so I first took a bus to Almaty. Tbilisi is a beautiful hilly city, with many churches. They celebrate Christmas on January 7 (Orthodox Christmas). I did not experience any Christmas celebrations, despite being there that day. People here speak Russian and Georgian. My limited Kyrgyz was no help at all, and English is spoken by some, a minority, I'd say. I took a tour to the snowy, northern part of the country (Kazbegi) to visit a monastery. I also took a marshutka to another beautiful city, Sighnaghi. Traveling in a marshutka without being able to communicate with the driver is a bit scary. The driver made eye-contact with me in the rear-view mirror, indicating that we had arrived at my stop. There is a plaque of George W. Bush on one of the intersections, as they believe President Bush helped them in their 2008 war with Russia. He visited this country in 2005. Georgia is known for its wine--they serve wine in pitchers, like juice. Honey is also big here.
I met up with my friend Amrita in Tbilisi. She was a Peace Corps volunteer in Kyrgyzstan, and is now serving in Tbilisi.
I also spent a lovely day birding with an ornithologist. He took me to an ancient monastery, David Gareja, from the sixth century. This was very interesting, built into a cave. It was in-the-middle of nowhere, near the border with Azerbaijan.
Back in Bishkek, I went birding with my Kyrgyz friend, Adinai. I am discovering that my new hobby of birding is a great way to meet people!
Back in the village, my teaching is going well, especially my Nature Journaling English clubs. On a very windy day we looked out the window for signs of the wind, such as branches swaying and flags extended. Then we went outside to feel the wind on our face. On a snowy day, we looked at snowflakes with magnifying glasses I ordered from home--very cool (pun intended).
2024-12-26 05:27 am
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Merry Christmas and December Update

Hello All,
Merry Christmas to those who celebrate! December was a relatively quiet month. It started off with an English conference where the two best English speakers at my school presented on 'The Importance of Recycling". I was very impressed with their ability to speak on this topic in their third language!
My Nature Journaling English Clubs have finally taken off! Every time I go to the capital, I purchase more sketchbooks, as I want all students to have their own. I also purchased gloves for students, so their fingers don't get cold when we are outside drawing. For some reason, gloves (or mittens) are rarely worn here. But, one never goes outside without covering one's head! I usually wear a headband, which covers my ears, but this is thought to be inadequate headgear.
We had a big holiday celebration in Naryn City (the oblast capital), with 12 volunteers. There was a holiday-themed gathering at the American Corner Library. The kids loved karaoke singing Christmas songs. This library is a great source of English books for me. We had a pot-luck dinner, with a white elephant exchange. Very fun! I got to know Elizabeth, a new 60 volunteer who lives in a different oblast. We stayed up late talking like two schoolgirls!
The highlight of the month was Christmas Eve. I went to the capital and to attend a service (in English) at the International Church of Bishkek with a couple of American friends. It was wonderful to hear familiar Christmas hymns, including Silent Night, Hark the Herald Angels Sing--so lovely. This was the first time I had attended an in-person church service since leaving home 18 months ago.
My sons sent a me a big care-package. They use my friend's Bishkek address, then she sent it to the hostel I stay at, then I put in a taxi to the bus station, then a marshutka to my village. It was an effort getting it to my home, but well worth the trouble. I opened it on Christmas Day, while face-timing with them--it almost felt like I was home. My host family was very impressed with the pop-up singing card they gave me!
As this year comes to an end, I reflect on the impact I am having here in Kyrgyzstan. It occurred to me today that teaching English in a remote village may be as rewarding as treating someone's high blood pressure. Different types of impacts, for sure.
Happy New Year and warm wishes for a wonderful 2025!
2024-11-28 11:13 pm
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November 2024 Update

Happy Thanksgiving to All!
This month started off with an amazing trip to southern India for fall break. India is 6 hours south of my village, although it took 36 hours to get there (don't ask!). I spent 3 days in Kochi, exploring on tuktuk, visiting historical sites (the Dutch, Portuguese and English all had a role here). I took a cool backwater boat trip with a fun group. (Backwater: fresh water during the rainy season and salty during the dry season as water flows in from the ocean--something I learned from the guide). Then I spent 3 days 'glamping' near the Thattekad Bird Sanctuary. I saw many beautiful birds, but the best was a nighttime walk to see owls. I have always wanted to see an owl in the wild--it was amazing, seeing a mottled wood owl in a tree, then watching it take-off! I learned that many birders are very serious photographers, carrying fancy cameras to officially 'capture' birds for their lifetime lists. Binoculars and my phone camera were all I needed...

Back in the village, the son at my house got married. My family has 5 girls (only the two youngest live here) and one son. The Kyrgyz tradition is that when the (youngest) son gets married, he and his wife move into the parents' home, care for the parents in old age, and eventually inherit the house. The bride arrived dressed in white, to blaring music on a Saturday morning two weeks ago. Instead of having one big reception, there have been 'tois' at the house every night since the wedding. Every night there have been different groups of about 15 people here. These 'tois' (parties) are a lot of work for the family. They prepare the food, lots of fruit, baked goods, and salads are served in the first room, then the group moves to another room for the Kyrgyz national dish, besh barmak. This dish is noodles and meat, eaten with one's fingers. At least three animals (cows or sheep, not sure which) were killed in the back yard in preparation for the wedding.

It has been interesting to watch the new daughter-in-law integrate into the family. She is only 21 years old, which is a typical age for a bride. (The groom is 29). She greets the parents in the morning with a bow. She is very busy with the food preparation and serving during the tois. People congratulate the mother-in-law, on the marriage of her son, not so much the bride. It is all very fascinating to my American eyes.

Last weekend, the Kyrgyzstan Country Director, Hoyt Yee, invited all of the volunteers to his home for a traditional Thanksgiving meal. About half of my cohort came to the dinner, mostly from the north of the country. Many of those serving in the south, who would have had to fly to Bishkek, opted not to do so. It was great to have turkey, cranberry sauce, mashed potatoes, etc., especially because Thanksgiving Day was a regular work day for me.

I am happy to report that my Nature Journaling English Clubs have taken off! I purchased sketch books for students, and almost every day I take a group outside to notice, wonder, and ask questions. It is such a beautiful country--I hope one of my legacies here will be to build a greater appreciation for the natural world among the students.

My best to all who read this...
2024-10-28 03:30 am
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October Update, 2024

Hello Everyone,
As another month comes to an end, I reflect on the progress I have made at my school and in my village in the past year. Language continues to be a struggle, but I do see slow progress. It seems I do not hear verb endings well enough to correct my sentences. Everything has to be memorized, which leads to a paucity of spontaneous speech. But I know the people here appreciate my effort.

I have purchased journals to begin nature journaling with my students during our English Clubs. I hope that by combining English language with nature observations and journaling students will gain an understanding of the beautiful country they have the privilege of growing up in. On one walk we found sea buckthorn berries growing in the wild--the students were all familiar with this berry, as it is often used to make tea. We have also looked for burrs on animals and discussed how seeds have different methods of dispersal. My life has come full circle as my first degree was in Biology. If only one or two students becomes interested in conservation--protecting and enhancing their country's natural resources, my time here will be successful. Unfortunately, attendance in my English Clubs has been low at the start of the school year--I have changed the offered times so more students will (hopefully) attend.

Last month I mentioned how all the volunteers in my cohort met in the capital for our Mid-Service Training. The focus was on creating Student Friendly Schools--how to help students feel safe in their schools. My counterpart and Director brought this message home to our school by providing a seminar to all of the teachers here.
2024-09-29 10:29 am
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September, 2024 Update

Wow! This month flew by! It started with the the First Bell ceremony on September 2, which is a big deal throughout Kyrgyzstan. The 11th graders march in as the younger students, parents and teachers cheer them in recognition of their 'top dog' standing. Then they symbolically pass their notebooks to the first graders. I was called to the front to say a few words in Kyrgyz. It took a few weeks to straighten out the schedule--this is all done by hand using spreadsheets.

I was in Bishkek the last week of the month for our MST--mid-service training. The focus was on creating student-friendly schools. This was basically anti-bullying sessions--I recall similar sessions back when my sons were in grade school. The Director said this was the first she had participated in such a session. During MST, we reviewed our past year and worked with our counterparts on how to work even better together this year.
I have purchased textbooks, school supplies, and books for the preschoolers with the money donated for my project. Thanks to all who contributed!

While in Bishkek I took a tour of a very interesting site about 15 miles south of the city. This site, Ata-Beyit is where 138 men were executed in 1939 by Stalin's men. The site was discovered in 1990 after a women recalled how, as a child, her father told her about witnessing terrible events near their home. She told her memories to a KGB agent, a man named Abdrahmanov. This man, now the Director of the site, was present and very willing to answer our questions! Our guide said she had been here many times and this was the first time she had met him! This place reminded me of our national cemeteries, as people killed in recent conflicts as well as famous Kyrgyz people are buried.
October will be an exciting month--I plan to start nature walks with my students. I'm not sure the students who live in this village appreciate the beauty of the area. By combining nature walks with English club, I hope to get students excited about the natural world around them!
2024-09-02 07:48 am
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August Update

I thought August was going to be a slow month, but it wasn't. It started with English Camp, a week long camp that I organized at my school. I was fortunate that three volunteers who live fairly close to me came to help out. I continue to learn how to be a better teacher from other volunteers. Each day we had about 30 students. We made bracelets, did water coloring, played jeopardy and Jenga. All told, it was a lot of fun!

I went to Bishkek with one of my counterparts to decide which textbooks would be best to purchase (with money donated by many of you--thank you!) for our students. When in Bishkek, I often meet with friends who live there, or with other volunteers. I stay in a hostel which has a lovely courtyard (with friendly cats--very important!). I was able to visit a couple of other volunteers in other parts of this beautiful country. I went on a nice hike in the eastern part of the country. This area is so green, especially compared to my area, which is all brown. I think my area was green for a couple of months in the spring, but now it is brown again. I was excited to attend BirdFest, on Lake Issyk Kol, the largest lake in the country. This was a fantastic event! I saw how birds were 'ringed' (a tiny band placed on one of their legs, weighed and measured), and saw many beautiful cranes and other birds I have never heard of. I hope to get students in my village excited about birds in the months to come.

Summer is now over. I will now begin my second year of teaching English here in Kyrgyzstan. Every day I remind myself of how extraordinary it is that I am in this beautiful country!
Thanks for reading.
2024-07-30 02:12 am
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July, 2024 Update

Hello All,
The highlight of the month was a trip to the south of Kyrgyzstan. I visited my Kyrgyz language teacher, Salima eje. We typically work together virtually, so it was lovely to see her in-person in her lovely home. I continue to study Kyrgyz four hours a week with her. She has so much patience with me. I think if she can teach me, she can teach anybody! She lives with her husband, (who unfortunately was away when I visited), her son, daughter-in-law Ainora and two beautiful granddaughters. I slept on the floor on a tushok, as the vast majority of people in this country (and around the world) sleep. They have several fruit trees in their garden. We held a blanket under the tree while Ainora shook the branches and we were showered with a hundred apricots!
On the fourth of July, I visited Arslanbob, a village with a majority Uzbekistan origin. I hiked with a fellow volunteer to the top of a waterfall, a very, hot, steep hike, but made the US holiday memorable.
I then met other volunteers for a two day horse riding trip. This was absolutely beautiful, the most beautiful area I have seen in this beautiful country! The steepness and rain only made it more of an adventure! Such a fun group!
I then flew back to Bishkek and met with two volunteers, David and Amrita, who will be leaving the country soon. They are in the group ahead of me, and have completed their two years here. They have served as mentors to me, not only as older volunteers, but they are a wealth of information about the process of teaching English, which was all new to me.
The last two weeks I have been relaxing in my mountain village. I helped my host-mother make jam, from currents and apricots. I also help out at the hotel in the village, as there is a teenager there who wants to practice her English with me. There are many tourists in the village now--July and August are definitely the most popular times to visit. Most of them aim to get to Son Kol, the second largest lake in the country, either by hiking or horse trekking over a mountain pass. I am also preparing for my English camp, which will be the first week of August. I am hoping for a good turn-out, but it seems that many children are away.
2024-06-26 12:00 am

June, 2024 Update

Hello All, I am posting this early because I am not sure how long the donation link will be available for my project. Please consider donating to help provide English textbooks to my students and books for the preschools in the village.

The highlight of the month was clearly the visit of my sons, Benjamin and Kevin! I have looked forward to their visit for months. We hiked, rode horses, visited my village, stayed in a yurt camp, met my host family and teaching counterpart. We stayed in hostels, or slept on the floor on a tushuk, as many Kyrgyz people sleep. They experienced Kyrgyz transportation, riding in marshutkas and shared taxis and enjoyed delicious homemade bread! They experienced the wonderful Kyrgyz hospitality. My counterpart gifted them each with a kalpak, the traditional Kyrgyz hat worn by men throughout the country. The visit was wonderful, but, too fast, of course.

On the day they left the country, I went on a hike to the Alamedin Gorge. (I didn't want to sit around and mope.) This was a pretty walk through meadows and valleys to a lovely waterfall. It is amazing that there are incredible natural areas within half an hour's drive from the capital.

I spent a week helping a fellow volunteer, Ada, with her summer camp in a nearby village. She is a natural teacher and gave me lots of ideas to use in my own summer camp in August.

The pace of life has definitely changed with the end of the school year. My project is a big focus. Please consider donating to help buy English textbooks for my students and preschoolers in my village. Here is the link to donate:

https://www.peacecorps.gov/donate/projects/pp-24-307-005/
2024-05-29 02:01 am
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May, 2024 Update

Wow! I have completed my first year of teaching English in my village. May 25 is the Last Bell throughout the country, basically, graduation day. My school had about 25 graduates. No caps and gowns for the graduates, but sashes instead. The ceremony was long, with lots of singing and dancing by the graduating class. My mind wandered to all the graduation ceremonies I have been privileged to attend in my life. Many students in my village spend the summer in their family's 'jailoo', a pasture for their animals. Others work at the nearby lake, Son Kol, which attracts tourists from all over the world. Still others will be going to the capital, Bishkek, to spend the summer with relatives.

I am getting caught up on some reporting tasks and spring cleaning my room. It is a weird feeling not having any lessons to plan.

Earlier in the month, I had a chance to go to the National Park near Bishkek, Ala Archa. I was the only English speaker in my group. Fortunately, two lovely Russian ladies, incredible hikers, took me under their wing to guide me on difficult stretches. We didn't share a language, just basic humanity. The park was quite beautiful; it is nice that this country has set aside 13 national parks as well as other areas to protect from development.

The countryside is surprisingly green, a welcome site! When I arrived in the village at the end of August, it seemed quite brown. There are also beautiful wild flowers. Since it is now light longer, I now go for a walk after dinner. The light against the mountains is gorgeous! I am really beginning to love my village!

It is planting season--I 'helped' plant potatoes, a photo-op for me, but back-breaking work for many. There are many baby animals now, cows and sheep.

The Peace Corp group ahead of me is getting ready to depart, while a new group will be arriving next month. I am looking forward to my second year here. I think teaching will go smoother, and I will be more accustomed to the customs and traditions of my village.
2024-04-29 11:12 am
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April, 2024 update

It is still chilly here in the mountains of Kyrgyzstan. I believe the snow is over, but there are likely more muddy days ahead. April highlights included a big celebration for the end of Ramadan on April 10. Although I did not participate in fasting, I was included in the Eid holiday (celebrating the end of the fasting month of Ramadan). We went house to house (to about 7 houses) in the neighborhood feasting on fruit, nuts, and meats. It was fascinating to be included in this holiday.

I participated in a English language training session for guest-house owners in my village. This was very basic language, starting with the alphabet and numbers.

One afternoon a student excitedly led me out of the classroom (I thought perhaps someone was hurt), but no, there were two tourists from France who has heard about me and wanted to meet me! This couple is spending a year bicycling through Central Asia and southeast country, spending a month in each country. There was also another French couple in town, also cycling, who stayed at the hotel in my village. They were volunteering for a week, in exchange for room and board. I was invited to a dinner that they served, including fresh lettuce and apple pie, two food items that I have not had since I left the USA.

Besides teaching my classes, I now also provide an English Club five days a week. One club is for non-English teachers at my school, and another is for parents of students. I enjoy all the clubs, because people who attend really want to learn English. Compare this to the required English classes, for grades 3-11, where it seems more than half of the students don't really want to learn English. Students who think they are going to spend their life farming in the village may not see the value in learning English.
Happy May to all!
2024-04-01 09:07 am

March, 2024 Update Uzbekistan

The highlight of this month was my Spring Break trip to Uzbekistan. This is another former USSR republic. Like Kyrgyzstan, it has been independent since 1991. This country is much larger than Kyrgyzstan. It has recently opened up to tourism. It has many 'Silk Road" tourism sites. Names such as Marco Polo, Genghis Khan, and Alexander the Great all played a role here. The 'Silk Road' connected China to India and Europe back in the day. The language, Uzbek, is similar to Kyrgyz in some ways. I took a 14 hour overnight train from the capital, Tashkent, to Khiva, far to the west of the country. Khiva is a step back in time--it reminded me to Venice, as it seemed to be totally focused on tourism. There were many old madrassas, mosques, and minarets here, in bright blue cobalt. Then to Bukhara, my favorite of the four cities. It had a lovely 'town square', where I saw a fashion show with other volunteers whom I met up with here. I stayed in a very nice hostel, where I met other travelers, mostly from the UK. Next was Samarkand, where the mausoleum of Amir Timur is found. He was an accomplished warrior and Uzbekistan's national hero--he lived in the 1300's.
I found the people of Uzbekistan were incredibly kind. Here is an example: After arriving in Tashkent, I took a taxi to my hotel in an unlicensed taxi. To my shock the next morning, I could not find my money, which I kept in a separate pouch. I asked the hotel owner if he could charge my credit card and pay me the cash, with me paying the credit card commission and tax. He kindly agreed to help me in any way he could. Then, later that evening, there was a knock on my door--the receptionist said someone was downstairs to see me. Sure enough, it was the taxi driver returning all of my money! So amazingly kind! What a blessing!

Spring has brought rain and mud to my village. I will be glad when the muddy season is over, which I believe will be soon.
2024-03-01 07:26 am
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February, 2024 Update

Hello All!
I am spending this Leap Year Day in Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan, as part of a 3-day conference. The purpose of the conference is to teach us volunteers and our local counterparts about the grant-writing process. We are each working on a major project to improve our villages. The aim of my project is to start a mother's group in my village, with a focus on obtaining books (starting a library) for preschoolers. Moms in my village are very isolated, they have no where to gather to meet each other. I recall when my children were young, I would often take them to parks, the library, museums, coffee shops, etc. Women in my village have none of these options. Additionally, they live in their husband's village, with their in-laws. Kyrgyz culture dictates that the youngest son returns to the village with his wife, to care for his parents. Details of how you can contribute will be posted soon.

I continue to go to Kochkor on Saturdays, 1.5 hours east of my village. One day was extremely windy and snowy, but we still made it to Kochkor. I continue to enjoy the beauty of winter--the snow makes the mountains beautiful. I skated a few times at a small rink of Kochkor, but I think those days are over for the year.

School is busy with classes and clubs. English clubs are fun, but challenging, as I am alone with 30 students and no Kyrgyz-speaking counterpart. Usually, an advance student helps me translate words to Kyrgyz in needed.
2024-01-28 06:47 am
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January, 2024 Update

January Update: I often find myself asking: "Am I really here?" Compared to my life a year ago, this is a 360 degree flip! A year ago I was seeing patients in the clinic, supervising students in their clinical sites, writing simulation scenarios for my UIC students, etc. Now I am an English teacher in a remote village in Kyrgyzstan!

January started with 2 weeks of travel. For New Years, I went to Almaty, Kazakhstan with a fellow volunteer Mika. We explored the myriad of coffee shops, toured a beautiful Russian Orthodox church, skated at Medeu the highest skating rink in the world, and joined other volunteers for some great meals. Almaty is a beautiful city, 4-5 hours from Bishkek. Then, I flew to the southern part of the country, to Osh, the second largest city (after the capital, Bishkek). This was a 35 minute flight, but it is a 15+ hour drive in winter due to the rough mountain passes. In Osh, I visited with Santiago, another volunteer from Chicago. We played backgammon (I am hooked), climbed Sulaiman Too (a huge rock/mountain in the center of the city), shopped at the Osh bazaar and just had fun together. The winter break ended with a 6 hour bus trip to the eastern part of Kyrgyzstan for a volunteer retreat. This was in Karakol, on the eastern edge of Issykol Lake. The aim of the retreat was to discuss coping strategies for maintaining our mental health through the cold and dark winter. I joined a couple of volunteers for a day of skiing in Karakol. I love skiing in Colorado and think I am ok at it. But this mountain was very dangerous--downright scary. It was extremely steep and icy, and there was only one way down! But I survived--

On January 23 at midnight, there was a magnitude 7.0 earthquake here. I did not feel it at all, as I was fast asleep. But, the lovely little lake that I enjoyed skating on before Christmas, is now full of cracks. I skated there yesterday, but the cracks made it difficult. Volunteers nearer to the epicenter said their house shook like crazy...Fortunately, there was no structural damage reported in Kyrgyzstan, but I saw that 3 people died in China.

I have started offering English Clubs to my students. I have one club for grades 7-11, and one for grades 4-6. Only 4 older students attend, but 25-30 younger students. These clubs are challenging, as I am alone with the students, no counterparts participate. They take a bit of planning to keep the students engaged.

Overall, I am loving the winter here! It has not been extremely cold, and there is only an inch or two of snow, but it is beautiful. In the morning, the sun reflects beautifully off the mountains...am I really here?
2023-12-28 10:41 pm
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December, 2023 Update

Happy New Year to all who read this.

We are well into winter here, but, so far, not too bad. School was closed throughout the country for 3 days earlier this month because of a cold spell. I am not sure of the exact temperature, it felt like around 0 degrees F. There is not much snow, currently less than an inch.

I spent a weekend in Naryn City, the oblast (state) capital. They host an American Corner in the library. Students come to the library for English lessons. There are a couple of American Fulbright scholars working there--it was interesting to see what they were working on. One project's aim is trying to get more books to preschool aged children. This might be something I will try to bring to my village, as I see few books in homes..

Peace Corps gives us 8000 som ($89) as 'settling in' money. We were to purchase items for our use during service, but will stay with our host family when we leave. I bought a space heater (1300 som), a clothes drying rack (1600), bed sheets (1800), a clock (400), a mirror (300), a wastebasket (300), and hangers (1000).

Christmas is not celebrated here, but New Years is a major holiday. They call the decorated evergreen trees 'New Years trees'. There are celebrations at the school, and teacher parties (a big one tonight!). On Christmas Day, I tried to go to a peer volunteer's neighboring village, as her English club was having a Christmas party, but I could not find transportation, so that was disappointing. I did make it to her village later in the week, which actually worked out better, as we were able to spend some time together.

A highlight of the month was ice skating on a large frozen lake. This was the first time I have ever skated on a frozen lake. The ice was incredibly smooth--so beautiful. There were no soft spots. I hope to do this regularly this winter, as it really brought me joy! Other highlights were Christmas Day family facetime, a large package from home, church zoom bookclub meeting, and weekly chats with my sons and brother. (Peace Corps service was much more difficult before our current technology).

I now have two weeks off for winter break. I am headed to Almaty, Kazakhstan and then to Osh City, in the south of Kyrgyzstan for a few days.
Thanks for reading!
2023-12-03 08:34 am
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November Update, Kyrgyzstan #7

The highlight of the month was dinner at the home of Lesslie Viguerie, the US Ambassador to Kyrgyzstan.
Thanksgiving was a regular teaching day for us, as we do not get US holidays off. I made a point of asking my students what they were thankful for, and we had a nice list on the blackboard. The following week was IST, in-service training in the capital, Bishkek. Monday night, we had a traditional Thanksgiving dinner at the Country Director's house: turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce, green beans, pumpkin pie. Very nice. The following day, at the Ambassador's, was a Christmas theme dinner: lasagna, salad, and both cherry and apple pies, with ice cream. There was even ice cubes on the drink table, the first ice I have had since arrival last summer! We were taking group pictures on the stairs, and I happened to notice several large bookcases full of books upstairs. I suggested that he bring me a couple of books if he was ever in my region--instead, he suggested that I go upstairs and borrow a book or two, which, of course, I did.

I adjusting to working with a new counterpart at the school, as my original counterpart is now off on a 6-month maternity leave. The new teacher is young, and, since he was not involved in the application process to secure a volunteer, I am not sure how he feels about working with me.

Earlier in the month we had a 1-day host-family conference. This was in Naryn City, the oblast center, similar to a state capital. It is about 2.5 hours from my village. This town seemed to have more to offer than Kochkor, where I have been spending my Saturdays. I am looking forward to exploring Naryn City more in the future. I hear they have a library with an American Corner--I will donate the books I have completed.

Of course it is colder and darker here now. There is no snow on the ground, but the streams are frozen. There are not many trees here, especially deciduous trees that shed leaves. I really missed the sound of crunching leaves under my feet. On Mondays, I have an 8:00 class, so the sun is just starting to rise. I find myself looking down to avoid stepping in animal dung, then I remind myself to look up to enjoy the beauty of the new day and to be thankful that I have this opportunity in this beautiful country.

Last month someone asked about health care here. We volunteers have almost a concierge system. After arrival we were given a huge bag of medical supplies, including covid test kits, pulse oximeter, bandages, many types of oral antibiotics, sunscreen, dental floss, eye drops, etc. There is a PCMO (Peace Corps Medical Officer). We are not to use any of the supplies, unless under the direction of the PCMO. Since most of us are placed in remote villages, the idea is for us to have the necessary supplies to treat common conditions. Several of my peers have had to see specialists--the PCMO accompanied them to specialist visits, both to help with translation and to be involved in the care. If we need to see a health care provider, we are provided with transportation and lodging at a nice hotel in Bishkek. But, from what I understand, sometimes there is overkill. For example, one peer was provided with a very expensive 'boot' for a minor ankle sprain, and had to have multiple ankle ultrasounds, before she was 'cleared' to do without the boot. I couldn't help but think that the specialists overdo treatment in order to be reimbursed, as PC essentially gives them a 'blank check'.

Salt is used heavily here. Instead of shaking it into a dish, the cap is removed and it is poured in. I asked the PCMO about hypertension screening or treatment. He mentioned community health workers that come to the house, but my host family had not heard of them. One of my language teachers had trouble with intermittent rapid heartbeat. She showed me her medication--it was an herbal remedy, valerian, sometimes used for relaxation. I think healthcare for community members is several decades behind that available in the US. But, what they offer is more readily available to all...

I continue to work on learning the Kyrgyz language and integrating into my host-family, particularly my relationship with the 14-year old twin girls--I remember when I was that age--
As usual, I love hearing from everyone--let me know if you have any questions--I will address in my next update.
2023-10-30 07:22 am

October update, Kyrgyz #6

Hello All, I have been in my village for 2 months. Fall is beautiful here, with the change in leaves and the chilly air. No snow in my village yet, nor have I been able to see my breath. It is actually quite similar to Chicago's weather. I am feeling quite integrated into my community, as people often wave and say hello and my students will run up to me and hug me on my walks. I rarely hear the T-word (tourist), more often I hear volunteer or teacher.

I am still getting used to some of the table etiquette, such as eating foods such as rice, besh barmak (translates to 5-fingers, the national dish, a noodle-based dish) and fish with one's hands. Also, they often put a salad dish in the center of the table and everyone reaches in with their forks. My favorite salad dish is grated carrots with a vinaigrette, beet salad is also popular here.

October 5th was International Teacher's Day. The 11th graders hosted a teacher's appreciation show during the lunch break. Then in the evening, the teachers from my school went to a fancy banquet-hall type place for dinner and dancing. Very nice.

A highlight of the month was meeting the proprietors of a lovely 7-room hotel in town. Azema and Uzek actually applied to host the volunteer (me), but my host-family was chosen instead; no doubt Peace Corps wanted me to be more integrated with a family, rather than tourists at the hotel. This was a good decision. But, it was weird when they showed me around and said "this would have been your room". They both speak perfect English. They invited me for dinner one night when they had guests from Dubai. I am sorry to say that the horsemeat they served was absolutely delicious. Sometimes when I have free time, I will go to the hotel and sit and read or work on lesson plans. It is a nice 'home away from home', even with a library of English books I can borrow. (I have not eaten 4-legged animals in 40 years. My host-family is aware of this. I am always appreciate of them making something for me without meat, such as monti--a ravioli type food. They will make special ones for me with potatoes and onions, but no meat. I do not refuse meat here, rationalizing that animals are treated much better--no factory farms here).

One of the trekkers in town also invited me to dinner. When I arrived to his yurt camp at the agreed time, he was not there, and he forgot to tell his wife about inviting me. Nevertheless, she was super hospitable! She called her husband, who soon appeared with a rotisserie chicken (I still don't know where he got it). She is an English teacher, but currently home with 2 small children and helping her husband with the tourist business. (One night in the yurt, dinner and breakfast: about $15).

About teaching English: I try to make it fun. I am currently talking about baseball, as the World Series is going on at home. Baseball is not popular here, but the students enjoy hearing about it. I drew a 'plate' on the blackboard and had students 'pitch' to it with a squishy ball. Peace Corps taught us to use a communicative approach, which involves using pictures and charades to teach words--not strict memorization. We start up with a warm up activity, teach the lesson, then end with application, having them use what they learned in real world situations. My 5th and 6th grade classes are my favorite. They are quite active and participate willingly. My older students, 7th and 8th graders, sometimes sit with a blank stare on their faces. I am fortunate to have wi-fi at my school, so I can show ESL short videos. My primary counterpart will be going on maternity leave starting next week. This will be a big change for me, as she is the English teacher most willing to adapt to new methods.

I continue to go to Kochkor on Saturdays in the Peace Corps provided taxi. I meet with fellow volunteers (there are 6 of us nearby), shop, go to the park. It is a nice change of pace. I have befriended an orange cat in the fruit market. Sadly, one of the vendors typed into google translate that this friendly cat "loves me" and does not have a home, and I could take him if I wanted to. I couldn't--my host family hates cats and it would not be fair to have him stuck in my room, especially if I am traveling. So I will enjoy his company when I see him on Saturdays.

I am grateful for my internet access (lots of facebook scrolling). I have Sirius XM on my phone, so I am more up-to-date in US politics than need be. I have regular phone calls with my family, for which I feel blessed. I am grateful every day for this opportunity to be working in this beautiful country, positively enhancing the lives of many of my students. I am told that this area of the country has 5 months of winter (November through March). I'm ready! How bad can it be?
Please leave your questions or comments on the FB post--I really enjoy them!

This content is mine alone and does not reflect the opinion of the US government or the Peace Corps.